Woody Point Lighthouse

After leaving the Port au Port Peninsula, it is time to spend a few nights in Gros Morne National Park. We will first pass Corner Brook, the major town on the west coast. The town has been an important part of the Newfoundland forestry industry with its pulp and paper mill. I think the area would make a nice stopover for a few days, but we have only paused a couple of times for a quick meal, as we were always in a rush.

After Corner Brook the road runs along Deer Lake (one of the few bodies of water given that status in Newfoundland, since most are called ponds) for about 30 kilometres until you reach the town of Deer Lake, at Newfoundland’s big crossroads. Turn right to go to St. John’s or left for Gros Morne and the Northern Peninsula.

We are turning left, but first we can stop for gas and food since being a highway crossroads, there are many places to shop. Deer Lake also hosts an airport, which allows tourists to fly in, rent a car, and tour the west coast only, skipping the east coast (not recommended, but then I am biased) Or tourists can fly into either St. John’s or Deer Lake, tour the island and fly out of the opposite airport, avoiding the second drive across the island.

It is not an overstatement to say that Gros Morne National Park is spectacular and will likely be the highlight of your visit to Newfoundland. Gros Morne achieved United Nations World Heritage Site status in 1987, thanks to its glacial and geologic history.

But first we have to consider how to pronounce it. In Newfoundland you must remember to never pronounce French words like the French would. Gros Morne is pronounced as Gross Morn. You must say that supposedly silent s! The park was named after Newfoundland’s second-highest peak (806 m). That is not impressive by the Alps or Rockies but remember this is part of the Long Range Mountains, the end of the Appalachians, so they have been worn down over 1.2 billion years.

Gros Morne is divided by the beautiful Bonne Bay. It is helpful to know that the road goes around the bay and requires a one-hour drive between the two main overnight spots of Wood Point and Rocky Harbour. In Newfoundland terminology you have the North Arm and the South Arm of Bonne Bay.

Our first trip to Gros Morne was in 2007. We were doing our first drive back to Pouch Cove from Toronto. On arrival at the park, we turned left and drove straight to the Tablelands.

For any geology buffs, the Tablelands were formed by continental drift which left the earth’s mantle exposed. We visited again in 2010. These are photos from both trips, one in June 2007 and the other in June 2010.

In 2007 we carried on to the North Arm. My next post will be about the attractions there. But I am recommending that you spend a couple of days in this neighbourhood, maybe staying at a B&B in Woody Point like we did in 2010.

Wood Point is an attractive town. I took most of these photos one morning when I noted a break in the clouds and rushed out to take some shots before the fog and cloud reappeared.

After supper on our second night, I looked out at a great sunset and decided that I had to go out to take a photo. After getting my shot, I heard some people shouting out to me and was soon invited up to a deck, given a beer, and handed some spoons (musical type) to tap along to a boom box playing traditional Newfoundland music. Unfortunately, that was before selfies, and I never thought to get a photo of my new friends. But I do have the memory.

Oh, about the lighthouse, it is easy to walk to, and you can see that it is quite cute. It was built in 1919.

We also visited the community of Trout River where we had hoped to do part of the Trout River Pond Trail but gave up since we could not see a thing in the fog. But we did visit a couple of museums and had a great meal.

Woody Point was also where we were introduced to Newfoundland musical legend, Ron Hynes. Ron spent a lot of time in the town and was doing a concert at the Woody Point Heritage Theatre. We saw the sign and decided to buy tickets. I do not know how we had missed him up to that point, but like most folks, we fell in love with his music that night. Ron was known for his songs about the province, especially its hard times with the closing down of the cod fishery and mines. Sadly, he died in 2015. He was given a huge memorial at the St. John’s Basilica.

I mention this because the province is full of talented musicians, and you might be lucky on your tour of Newfoundland and stumble across one. Be sure to attend. There is nothing like the intimacy of a house concert. This video is of Ron and Amelia Curran. We first heard Amelia at the little café in Pouch Cove.